Sayulita, Nayarit, Mexico

22 miles north of Puerto Vallarta is Sayulita, one of the most special towns in Mexico. Boasting 80 restaurants to feed a population of only 3,000, Sayulita is a foodie’s paradise. International cuisine ranges from Italian, to Mexican, to French, to Japanese. While relaxing on the beach, I’ve enjoyed pan au chocolate, a banana crème donut made with real bananas, freshly sliced mango, and a carrot nut muffin all delivered to my beach chair for about USD $1. The ice cream shop serves real fruit popsicles, Burritos Revolucion's small street-side location serves up one of the tastiest shrimp burritos I’ve ever eaten, and Choco Banana sells frozen bananas dipped in chocolate and covered with granola, sprinkles, or coconut. The Friday farmer’s market is a good place to stock up on fresh seafood, local organic produce, coffee, etc.

Its coastal tropical location means that Sayulita’s visitors enjoy a range of outdoor activities. There is excellent surfing, fishing, snorkeling, and hiking in a jungle full of surprises. During my 10 day visit, I met countless interesting people including artists, healers, musicians, massage therapists, yoga instructors, pro surfers, an Idaho white water rafting guide who drove to Mexico on vegetable oil, and a couple from Breckenridge with mustaches tattooed on their fingers…

As its popularity grows, Sayulita definitely feels “discovered.” Properly values have soared, English is ubiquitous, and you can find organic soy milk on many menus. But there is a reason why so many expats visited and never left. Locals and visitors alike are outgoing, friendly, laid-back, and fun-loving. Among the first things you’ll notice in Sayulita are smiles and laughter. Don’t take my word for it. Visit yourself and eat, party, dance, relax, and surf your way through this small tropical village.

Todos Santos and Ferry to Mainland Mexico

As I drove through the artist community of Todos Santos with my Ipod on shuffle, the Eagles’ Hotel California coincidentally started playing for the first time in weeks. Why is that a coincidence? Legend has it that the inspiration for the song is this little hotel in Todos Santos.

From Baja to mainland Mexico, I took a 12 hour ferry to Mazatlan on a 1200 person ship. During the passage, I met a Miami-based marine surveyor who was on board to inspect the vessel and attest to its sea-worthiness. Since he holds significant sway over the ship’s international safety certification, the entire crew knows him, and treats him like royalty. With my new friend, I met the ferry’s executives including the captain, first mate, and chief engineer and enjoyed a tour of the bridge, where they control the vessel.

Southern Baja--Cabo San Lucas and Santiago

Today I entered the Tropic of Cancer and showered in a waterfall. The mountain region surrounding the town of Santiago offer warm crystal clear streams, waterfalls, incredible trees, and an abundance of animals. One deserted location boasted a giant acacia tree, massive boulders, and a clear stream with a soft sandy bottom. This was the site of my first amazing waterfall shower.

The small village of Cabo Pulmo boasts western North America’s only living coral reef and it’s paradise for divers, snorkelers, and anglers. After camping on the beach I went snorkeling in the clear Sea of Cortez.

The internationally acclaimed resort town of Cabo San Lucas is a loud, ostentatious, glittering distant relative of every other town in Baja. Yacht clubs, spring breakers, gringo tourists, chain restaurants, Wal Marts, jet skis, and high rise hotels intermingle with a gorgeous coastline where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez meet.

San Juanico AKA Scorpion Bay

After several days driving south down the Baja Peninsula, we finally arrived in San Juanico AKA Scorpion Bay, a world-famous surfing destination known for its 7 point breaks. The waves here are often perfect and provide some of the longest rides in the world. When conditions are right, rides can last 3 minutes or more (yes, 3 minutes, that’s not a typo.) Only a few years ago, San Juanico was a sleepy fishing village but encroaching pavement has brought increasing numbers of tourists. The road into town is mostly paved except for a 9 mile stretch and the population of800 consists of about one-quarter gringos, almost exclusively surfers from California. The old adage “bad roads bring good people” certainly holds true here in Scorpion Bay. It’s the type of town you visit to get away from it all; there is no phone service, scarce electricity, no bank, and one restaurant.

During the Mexican 1000, I met an American resident of San Juanico named Chris AKA Penguino, who is close friends with my friends living in Costa Rica. I ended up spending the next few days camping at Chris' house and enjoying his hospitality and tales of life in Central America.

One of the first things you notice about San Juanico is a set of 8 large wind turbines which comprise part of a modern wind energy complex. Why would a small Mexican fishing village have such cutting edge technology? A decade ago, an Arizona utility company installed the system gratis in exchange for emission credits. In 1999, the project cost about USD 1 million. Unfortunately, the system has malfunctioned several times under the auspices of local management and is not currently functioning. The town (sometimes) has generator and solar-powered electricity. During my 6 day visit, the power was out for several days. San Juanico is facing outside development without the infrastructure to support the growth. It is, however, a gem on the Baja Peninsula and I recommend a visit ASAP to beat the encroaching touristas. Hopefully the lights will be on for you.