San Juanico AKA Scorpion Bay

After several days driving south down the Baja Peninsula, we finally arrived in San Juanico AKA Scorpion Bay, a world-famous surfing destination known for its 7 point breaks. The waves here are often perfect and provide some of the longest rides in the world. When conditions are right, rides can last 3 minutes or more (yes, 3 minutes, that’s not a typo.) Only a few years ago, San Juanico was a sleepy fishing village but encroaching pavement has brought increasing numbers of tourists. The road into town is mostly paved except for a 9 mile stretch and the population of800 consists of about one-quarter gringos, almost exclusively surfers from California. The old adage “bad roads bring good people” certainly holds true here in Scorpion Bay. It’s the type of town you visit to get away from it all; there is no phone service, scarce electricity, no bank, and one restaurant.

During the Mexican 1000, I met an American resident of San Juanico named Chris AKA Penguino, who is close friends with my friends living in Costa Rica. I ended up spending the next few days camping at Chris' house and enjoying his hospitality and tales of life in Central America.

One of the first things you notice about San Juanico is a set of 8 large wind turbines which comprise part of a modern wind energy complex. Why would a small Mexican fishing village have such cutting edge technology? A decade ago, an Arizona utility company installed the system gratis in exchange for emission credits. In 1999, the project cost about USD 1 million. Unfortunately, the system has malfunctioned several times under the auspices of local management and is not currently functioning. The town (sometimes) has generator and solar-powered electricity. During my 6 day visit, the power was out for several days. San Juanico is facing outside development without the infrastructure to support the growth. It is, however, a gem on the Baja Peninsula and I recommend a visit ASAP to beat the encroaching touristas. Hopefully the lights will be on for you.